In the heart of Labëria, between Kardhiq, Himara, Kurvelesh and Rrëzomë, lies Zhulat — a village of unyielding spirit, where every stone carries centuries of memory and the landscape stands proud and untouched. Among the many stories we uncovered, two captivated us completely, offering powerful reasons why anyone wishing to discover the real Albania should come here.
According to several sources, nearly 900 years ago, one of the oldest known Albanian songs was born in this very village — “Me Bizant të zu inati”, still sung today. More than a song, it is a legacy passed down through generations, retelling the resistance of the locals against the Byzantines under the lead of Petro Zhulati. Equally remarkable is that Zhulat is considered the birthplace of Labëria’s customary law, the traditional “Kanun of Labëria”, attributed to Papa Zhuli, a local priest during the Norman incursions in the 11th century. Its roots, however, are far older — shaped collectively by Labëria itself, where honor functioned as an institution, a man’s word weighed more than stone, a promise was sacred, and hospitality was an unbreakable code. In the 18th century, this unwritten law was refined by Idriz Suli, whose statue now stands exactly where the wise men of the region once gathered.
As we wandered through Zhulat beneath a breathtaking sunset framed by proud mountain peaks, we arrived at Zhulat Ecovillage, a 300-year-old traditional home turned into a warm and soulful guesthouse.
The stone courtyard, hanging vine branches and the smile of a villager who greeted us as if we had known each other for years hinted that behind the old wooden gate a different era was waiting — one where life flowed slowly, quietly, and deeply rooted in nature and tradition. Within that peaceful silence, broken only by the sounds of the countryside, we felt like stepping into an old Albanian film: ducking under arched doorways, pausing by an antique chest that once may have held a bride’s trousseau, resting by a stone fireplace surrounded by timeworn furniture, and walking across carpets that carried the scent of past seasons when families distilled their last grapes into raki. We even toasted with a small glass of it, savoring a meal prepared entirely from the garden surrounding the house.
From the owner we learned that this home is a monument of survival. It has endured fire twice, foreign occupation, the forced displacement of its inhabitants, and the modern abandonment that many Albanian villages have suffered — yet it still stands. This year, for the first time, it opened its doors and its heart to visitors from Albania and beyond, embracing a new chapter full of beauty and challenge.
Guided by Fatmir Aliko, a national guide and proud son of Zhulat, we explored the many destinations and activities the region offers:
* The Zhulat River, part of the Vjosa National Park — perfect for hikers, photographers and nature lovers.
* The Zhulat Fir Reserve, a protected area and summer home to shepherds’ mountain huts — best visited in spring or autumn when the colors are spectacular.
* A 6-hour hike to and from the reserve, or for the more adventurous, an ascent to Mount Luca at 1,830 m.
* The abandoned village of Kaparjel, where only stone walls remain, holding stories waiting to be heard.
* The Castle and Old Village of Kardhiq, which left us speechless: the castle (14th–15th century) is a Category I Cultural Monument, and the old village, though in ruins, showcases the timeless architecture of Labëria.
As we explored its paths and peaks, we were rewarded with majestic views of the mountains and the Drino Valley — breathtaking enough that even one of them would have justified the entire trip. On the way back, we also stopped at Çepo Monastery, a cultural and historical landmark. And as we left, we turned once more toward the road leading to Zhulat — to save a few memories in the heart rather than the phone, and to feel again the heartbeat of Labëria, which had welcomed us with arms wide open.
